Northern Laos

The weather was so cold upon reaching the north of Thailand and crossing the boarder to Laos that we spent the first few days buying long pants, jumpers, coats and warm socks!!! We left Thailand a day late and so were charged 1000B for the privilege. We arrived in Huay Xai and everyone tried to rob us blind. We actually werent able to stop this as we only had $US and not Laos Kip.... We traveled further north to Luang NamTha, where we continued to shop instead of seeing the sights. However, Im not sure what sights we would have been able to see, most people trek in LNT but the director of a trekking company had just been kidnapped halting a number of the planned treks. He still hasnt been found and no ransom has been requested. We had a massage while in LNT. It was an interesting experience. The place also did steam baths and the waiting area for the steam bath was also the massage room. I say room but this is a very loose translation of the word. It had a roof and a floor, but no walls. The atmosphere was different.... it was interesting to have children running around yelling to each other, cocks crowing and a whole lot of strangers watching my massage, but the massage was very good and very cheap less than $US2 for 40 min.

We caught a local bus out of LNT headed for UdomXai. Once there we waited for a few hours with a couple (James and Anki) we met on the bus before catching another bus to Muang Khua. The second bus was "interesting" we had more people than seats and the last guy to get on proudly told us he was Vietnam. He was very loud and a little obnoxious..... taking James' book, speaking to people loudly as he was also listening to music, smoking on the bus and ashing in the general direction of our feet, resting on Choco, and being very late for the bus after a short stop. Finally he went to sleep.... Arriving in Muang Khua we tried to find some accommodation. The recommended guest house was pretty awful so we kept looking, a hotel that should have been $US15 said the price was $US150. We were told this is what they do when they dont want you to stay. It mainly occurs in guest houses built by Chinese for Chinese (only). We tried another few but they were full so we had no choice but to go back to the dodgy but friendly guest house we started at. The next morning after a horrible nights sleep, but that's what you get at $US1.50 each.... we headed to the river to catch a boat to Muang Ngoi. We were robbed all over again and had no choice but to go along with it. Choco was very unimpressed with Laos at this point. The 3 hour boat trip was very picturesque, slightly making up for the terrible way we had been treated. Muang Ngoi was a very cute river side town which is only accessible to by boat. We kept ourselves busy wandering around the village, visiting a limestone cave, having more massages and a steam bath - which was really good in the cold weather, but I couldn't imagine having one down south where it is heaps warmer. The food there was all pretty average and the chocolate so old it was white, therefor Choco decided to make himself something sweet to eat. In a complex procedure involving the crushing of plain biscuits, chocolate biscuits and kitkats, adding coconut milk powder and finally just enough condensed milk before thoroughly mixing - in a plastic bag, rolling into a log shape and letting harden over night. Choco was so proud of himself. Unfortunately the village had a rodent problem, so poor Choco spent the whole night imagining a mouse was eating his chocolate log and didn't get much sleep.... But in his mind it was well worth it. The log accompanied us down river to Nong Khua and then onto a tuktuk to LuangPraBang. On the tuktuk Choco, realising he would be sick if he ate the whole thing kindly offered it around. A small boy (about 4yo) reluctantly tasted the piece he was given before requesting another piece by sticking out his hand. After the second piece he promptly fell asleep. I think his mother wanted the recipe. After 4 uncomfortable hours on the tuktuk we finally reached LuangPraBang.

First bus trip from Huay Xai to LNT, the road was literally cut throught the mountain

Scene from the river at Muang Khua

Cave near Muang Ngoi

Boys making dirt balls on the river bank in Muang Ngoi

Main street in Muang Ngoi

I think I have some better photos but I got sick of waiting 20 min (slight exaggreations...) for each to upload.